Overview
The dormant volcano Mt Damavand (5671m), northeast of Tehran, is the highest mountain in the Middle East. Shaped a lit-tle like Mt Fuji, it is one of Iran’s most rec-ognisable icons, appearing on the IR10,000 note, on bottles of Damavand spring water and on numerous other commercial items.
In good weather, the dramatic mountain-ous vistas around Damavand are attraction enough, and there are pleasant hot springs for a soak in nearby Abgarm village, and skiing in season at Abali, on the way from Tehran. Most people who head out this way, however, will do so to climb the peak. Start by heading to the large, comfortable Polour Mountain Complex (2270m), built by the Iran Mountaineering Federation – the best place to acclimatise before attempting the south and west face routes. The climbing season is from June to September, or May to October for experienced climbers.
Climbing the Mountain
There are 16 routes up Damavand, but the vast majority of people take the classic south-ern route. For information on the northern route, talk to the English-speaking owners of Varzesh Kooh, who are happy to share their knowledge and put you in touch with guides.
From a technical point of view, Dama-vand is basically a walk-up. Climbing so far so quickly is its most dangerous aspect, with altitude sickness (watch for dizziness, headaches, nausea and swollen fingers) claiming lives every year. The volcano last erupted about 7300 years ago, but it still belches out sulphuric fumes from near the summit, strong enough to kill unfortunate stray sheep and ward off mountaineers.
Most first-timers use a guide and you can expect to pay about US$550 for an all-inclu-sive (guide, transport, food, lodgings, don-key etc) three-day tour from Tehran. This includes the US$50 fee foreigners must pay to the government to climb the mountain. A guide alone for a two-day climb will cost about US$100 per day.
Damavand is best climbed in three days, starting at Polour Mountain Complex and going 11km by road to Camp 2, then trek-king from there to Camp 3 or Base Camp, before making the ascent; www.damawand. de has maps and details of the variousroutes. There’s no water en route and no way of booking the hut; on Thursday nights and holidays it is packed with students from Tehran. Bringing a tent, sleeping bag and perhaps a stove (and leaving it in camp during the final ascent) is recommended. Even in July, nights are freezing, and it can be -10°C at the summit. It’s recommended to fill water bottles during the day, as the water will be frozen when you first get up.
In August you should be able to climb to the peak without special equipment. The summit doesn’t require any technical gear, but it does require fitness, warm clothes and hiking boots for the loose rocks. Bear in mind that the weather can change sud-denly and snowfalls are a possibility, even in summer. Most people return from the summit to Tehran in one day.
Hot Springs
After expending all that energy climbing Mt Damavand, you’ll be pleased to know that in the upper part of Abgarm village, about 6km east of Rineh, several hotels have been built around hot springs.
Alternatively, ask around about renting a room for the night in the village which will include breakfast, tea and a dip in a private hot-spring bath.
Activities
Boots, skis and poles can be hired in both villages.
The resorts’ proximity to Tehran mean that the slopes can get very busy here on Thursday, Friday and public holidays.
Shemshak Ski Resort
Government-operated Shemshak, Iran’s second-largest ski field after Dizin, offers challenging terrain with mainly black-rated runs. Vertical descents are about 500m (some of it at an adrenalin-inducing 45-degree angle) and there are plenty of moguls. There are no gondolas, just two chair lifts and four drag lifts to get you up its two main slopes.
Darbansar Ski Resort
At an elevation of 2650m, ris-ing to 3150m, Darbansar is privately run and more modern than nearby Shemshak. The runs are moderately challenging and there’s plenty of scope for off-piste skiing, including across to Dizin on the other side of Mt Kashoolak. There’s also a ski school and night skiing here.
Points Of Interest
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