Overview
The original Jolfa was once a major Armenian settlement famous for its skilled artisans. They were so skilled, in fact, that in 1604 Shah Abbas kidnapped the entire population, whisking them off to build him a new capital at Esfahan, where their descendants still live. Jolfa is now a busy little border town centred on Ashura Sq, a sizeable roundabout directly south of the Azerbaijan immigration post. There’s little to see in town, but it makes a good budget base for crossing into Arme-nia or visiting the Unesco-listed Church of St Stephanos on a wooded hill above the Aras River, 17km west of Jolfa. The church’s well-preserved exterior reliefs in-clude Armenian crosses, saints and angels. The interior is still under restoration. Take a taxi from Jolfa to St Stephanos. Bring your passport with you, as there’s a checkpoint just as you leave Jolfa and you may be stopped.
Other reasons to hang around including exploring the sublime Aras River Valley or the enclave of Nakhchivan.
West of Jolfa
On the Azerbaijani riverbank 7 km west of Jolfa, a truncated tomb stub and broken bridge are all that mark the original site of ancient Jolfa (view it across the Aras from near a police ‘fort’; leave the camera in the taxi). About 1km further west, just before the police checkpoint where the dual highway ends, is the restored Cara-vanserai Khaje Nazar, which overlooks the Aras beautifully. Just after the check-point, as you enter a spectacular red-rock canyon, you’ll see the tiny Chupan Chape above you on the left. Ten kilometres further on you’ll come to the turnoff for St Stephanos church
Jolfa to Kaleybar
Travelling east from Jolfa, the horizon is a tableau of eroded red cliffs backed by snow-streaked Armenian peaks. In the middle distance is the rocky cleft of Nakhchivan’s abrupt Ilan Dağ (Snake Mountain), through which Noah’s Ark supposedly crashed en route to Ararat. Just beyond attractive Marazad, the sinu-ous mud wall of Javer Castle rises on a craggy shoulder. Four kilometres further, take a short detour to the picturesque stacked village of Ahmadabad, on a rise overlooking the Aras. Another 2.5 km along the main road, a turning east leads steeply up to the popular Asiyab Khurabe (Xaraba Dəyirman) spring and picnic area. The side trip is justified mainly by the valley views as you drive back down.
Siyah Rud’s farmers produce the raw silk for Tabriz’s weaving villages of Khanemu and Osku. Locals are usually happy to show you the cocoon-extraction process if you’re passing through during May or June. Further east, the road passes through canyons with glimpses of spiky, crested ridges leading up to Kuh-e Kamtal (Chamtal Dagh, Tiger Mountain).
Sixty kilometres from Jolfa, the canyon widens slightly at Norduz, the modern Iranian–Armenian border post.
Four kilometres east of Norduz, pictur-esque Duzal village rises on a hillock domi-nated by a distinctive octagonal tomb tower and imamzadeh-ye (shrine or mausoleum to a descendant of an imam). Behind the next rocky bluff the road passes through the gate towers and sturdy mud-topped stone walls of the once huge Abbas Mirza Cas-tel (Kordasht Castle). When viewed from the east, the walls frame an impressive spire of eroded rock on the Armenian side. One kilometre further east is a large, lovingly renovated historic hammam (Kordasht) with newly marbled floors and attractive ceiling patterns. Two kilometres further, at the end of Kordasht village, look west for a particularly inspiring view of saw-toothed craggy ridges.
After another 25km, a side road rises steeply to the south beside a police post. This leads to Ushtebin (Oshtabin, Oshto-beyin) village (entry IR30,000) after 5km. This photogenic stacked huddle of mud and stone homes, in a ‘secret valley’ known for its white pomegranates, has been tout-ed as a ‘new Masuleh’, yet it remains virtu-ally unvisited.
The main road continues via the pho-togenically stepped village of Qarachilar (7km from Ushtebin junction) to a road junction at Junanlu (88km). The right turn climbs steeply away from the Aras, follow-ing a narrow gorge up through orchards and nomad summer pastures to Kaleybar. Instead of turning, if you continue straight past the fork for another 10km you will see a crumbling Khodaafarin Bridge crossing the Aras to a bombed-out village. Pho-tography is forbidden.
The drive between Jolfa and Kaleybar takes around 3½ hours with minimum stops – six to eight hours with side trips and lunch. The trip is equally stunning in either direction.
Kaleybar
Set attractively in a wide, steep-sided mountain valley, modest Kaleybar makes a great starting point for random hikes and visiting nomad camps en route to the upper Aras River Valley. But by far its biggest draw is the breathtaking crag-top ruin of Qal’eh Babak (Babak Castle; IR150,000). This extensive fortress, the lair of 9th-century Azeri hero Babak Khorramdin, looms above a desperately sheer chasm as you edge through a narrow cleft to the final traverse. The ascent will take one to two hours.
Beware of visiting Kaleybar during Babak’s controversial ‘birthday celebrations’ (in the last week of June). While it’s a culturally fascinating time, all accommodation will be packed and authorities might suspect you of being involved in stirring up political un-rest among Azeri nationalists.
Points Of Interest
This village, at 1700m elevation and just north of the no-torious Evin Prison, is one of Tehran’s most pleasant urban escapes
At 370,000 sq km the Caspian (Darya-ye Khazar) is five times the size of Lake Superior.That makes it by far the world’s largest lake.
This popular in town escape stretches ever more steeply up the mountainside at Tehran’s northern edge
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