Overview
On a high plain, surrounded by stark, eroded hills, the modest city of Zanjan makes the perfect base for wider explorations. The architectural wonder of Soltaniyeh is nearby, while the battered hoodoos of Behestan Castle and the bizarrely striped Colourful Mountains lie further afield. Enticingly scenic roads radiate to Khal Khal and the Caspian, the subterranean delights of the Katale Khor Caves, and Takht-e Soleiman ruins.
Zanjan’s moment of infamy came in 1851 with a bloody siege ordered by Persian prime minister Amir Kabir. The resulting massacre was part of the relatively successful campaign to crush the nascent Baha’i religion. Baha’ism had only broken away from Islam three years before, but it was spreading much too rapidly for Tehran’s liking.
Oljeitu was a Mongol ruler who, after dabbling in various religions, adopted the Shia name Mohammed Khodabandeh. He had planned to rehouse in his mausoleum the remains of Imam Ali, son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed. That would have made the mausoleum Shiite Islam’s holiest pilgrimage site outside Mecca (instead of Najaf, Iraq). However, Oljeitu couldn’t persuade the Najaf ulema (religious leaders) to give him Ali’s relics, and eventually he was buried here himself in 1317.
Around the main site also look for the Chalapi Oghli Mausoleum (Sheikh Boraq; Hamadan Hwy) an unadorned Ilkhanid Mongol–period brick shrine to Sufi mystic Sheikh Boraq, surrounded by the courtyard of a khanqah (dervish monastery); and the turquoise-topped tomb of Mullah Hasan Kashi, a 14th-century mystic whose recasting of Islam’s historical sagas as Persian-language poetic epics unwittingly had a vast influence over Shia Islam’s future direction.
Near the village of Vier (Viyar) lies Dashkasan Temple (Dragon Temple, Stone Carved Temple), a curious collection of ‘stone quarry’ inscriptions, the most renowned being those of two 3.5m facing dragons. Take a taxi from Soltaniyeh to see them.
Points Of Interest
This village, at 1700m elevation and just north of the no-torious Evin Prison, is one of Tehran’s most pleasant urban escapes
At 370,000 sq km the Caspian (Darya-ye Khazar) is five times the size of Lake Superior.That makes it by far the world’s largest lake.
This popular in town escape stretches ever more steeply up the mountainside at Tehran’s northern edge
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