Out on the baking plains of southern Khuzestan lies the deeply historic oasis of Shushtar, strategically located on the Karun River, where fascinating ancient hydraulic engineering provided water for surrounding irrigation and industry. Exploring the bridges, dams, canals and watermills that compose the Unesco-listed system make for an intriguing stay, and there’s also a smattering of imamzadehs (shrines) and lovely restored Qajar buildings if you get sick of all the water action. The town centre is 17 Shahrivar Sq.
History
The ancient inhabitants of proto-Iran attached great religious importance to mountains. Where they had no mountains, they made their own. This was the origin of distinctive pyramidal, tiered temples known as ziggurats. Choqa Zanbil’s ziggurat was the raison d’être of the town of Dur Untash, founded by King Untash Gal in the mid-13th century BC. Dur Untash bloomed especially in the early 12th century BC, when it had a large number of temples and priests. The town was eventually sacked by Ashurbanipal around 640 BC and, incredibly, remained ‘lost’ for more than 2500 years. It was accidentally rediscovered during a 1935 aerial survey by the Anglo-Iranian Oil Company, the forerunner of BP.
Some of Shushtar’s then state-of-the-art irrigation systems, now designated a Une-sco World Heritage Site, were built using Roman technology and labour: legionnaires defeated at the 259 battle of Edessa (today’s Şanlıurfa in Turkey). Their leader, vanquished Valerian, became the only Roman emperor ever to be captured alive.
Sassanian king Shahpur I was so proud of his victory over the Romans that he recorded the event with boastful carved reliefs at Naqsh-e Rostam and Bishapur. Stories vary as to Valerian’s fate, but Shushtaris insist that he was imprisoned in Qal’eh Salosel. In some versions he was systematically insulted and then brutally killed by being force fed a ‘soup’ of molten gold.
Sights
- Choqa Zanbil Ziggurat
- Shushtar Historical Hydraulic System
Other Sights
- Pol-e Shadorvan
Running parallel to the modern Azadegan Bridge connecting historic Shushtar to the New Town are the substantial remains of this Sassanid-era bridge and weir. Thought to have been designed and built by captured Roman engineers, this bridge, along with the Band-e-Mizan weir, raised the level of the Karun River by 2m, providing the necessary waters for the hydraulic system.
The bridge originally contained 45 arches and only fell into disrepair at the end of the 19th century. According to some Khuzestani historians, it was then deliberately dynamited by British agents, the idea being to break Shushtar’s trade connections and encourage locals to seek alternative work at the new (British-owned) oilfields of Masjid-i Soleiman. Less conspiratorial theories blame rebellions and floods for the bridge’s deterioration.
- Qal’eh Salosel
Set on a prominent cliff overlooking the river, historic Salosel Castle is no longer much to look at above ground. However, the caretaker will gladly show you the impressive Sassanian-era subterranean rooms and water channels. The tour also includes the stables (now a small museum) and a women’s weaving workshop. Look for the English sign on Shari’ati St, about 500m northwest of Shahrivar Sq, before Bateni Sq.
Salosel Castle is where Shapur I is said to have imprisoned Roman emperor Valerian. It’s also here that Persians held out for two years against the invading Arab Muslim armies until secret tunnels were revealed to the attackers by a traitor. For centuries Khuzestan was governed from a palace (‘Kushk’) on this site, and an im-pressive three-storey pyramidal building stood here until the 1920s.
- Imamzadeh Abdullah (Shrine of Abdullah)
On the southern edge of town, this shrine is topped by a photogenic Khuzestani ourchin dome similar to that of Daniel’s tomb in Shush, though this one deploys the rarer star base. A gory local tale records a woman beheading her own son to swap his head for the skull of a long-dead holy man, which is now enshrined here as a sacred relic.
At its foot is Band-e Lashkar, a small but impressive 13-arched Sassanid bridge.
- Kolah Farangi Tower
This crumbling 7.5m octagonal tower at the river’s edge was most likely a Sassanid navigational aid, though local lore has Shahpur’s slave driver watching the king’s Roman prisoners from here as they worked on the nearby Band-e Mizan weir.
- Islamic Shrines
About 2km east of the canal, the brilliant Sa-hib-al Zaman Shrine is graced by blue mosaics. Devotees are said to have made sight-ings of the Mahdi (last imam) here, hence the ‘empty seat’ shrine box. Sheikh Allama Shushtari Shrine entombs 20th-century religious scholar Mohammad Taqi ‘Allama’ Shushtari, one of Shushtar’s favourite sons.
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This village, at 1700m elevation and just north of the no-torious Evin Prison, is one of Tehran’s most pleasant urban escapes
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