Known in classical times as Ecbatana, Hamadan was one of the ancient world’s greatest cities. Pitifully little remains from antiquity, but significant parts of the city centre are given over to excavations, and there’s a scattering of historical curiosities. Sitting on a high plain, Hamadan is graciously cool in August but snow prone and freezing from December to March. In summer the air is often hazy, but on a rare, clear spring day there are impressive glimpses of snow-capped Alvand Kuh (3580m), sitting aloof above the ragged neocolonial cupolas of Imam Khomeini Sq.
History
According to ancient Greek historians, Median king Deiokes fortified a palace here in 728 BC, and over succeeding decades the Median capital of Ecbatana grew into an opulent city. Its massive walls were said to have had seven layers, the inner two coated in gold and silver, the outer one as long as that of classical Athens. By 550 BC it had fallen to the Achaemenid Persians, and King Cyrus was using it for his summer court.
The Medes retook the city in 521 BC but were kicked out again within six months by Darius, who was so pleased with himself that he recorded his achievements in stone beside the Royal Rd at Bisotun.
After centuries of pre-eminence and wealth under Parthian and Sassanian dynasties alike, Ecbatana/Hamadan faded somewhat after the Arab conquest in the mid-7th century, but it became the regional capital under the Seljuks for some 60 years in the late 12th century. Known as Hegma-taneh (Meeting Place) in Old Persian, Ham-adan suffered devastation by the Mongols in 1220 and again in 1386 (by Tamerlane), but it only hit a major decline in the 18th century following a Turkish invasion.
The city began to recover in the mid-19th century and was redesigned to a modern city plan in 1929 by German engineer Karl Frisch; Frisch’s master plan is a cartwheel design with six avenues radiating from Imam Khomeini Sq, referred to simply as ‘meydan’. The wheel distorts to the north-east around the hill of Tappeh-ye Mosallah and the excavation site of Hegmataneh Hill.
Sights
- Hegmataneh Hill
- BuAli Sina Mausoleum
- Ali Sadr Caves
- Ganjnameh
Other Sights
- Alaviyan Dome
The 12th-century green dome, immortalised by a reference to it in the poet Khaqani’s work, has long since been removed, but the untopped brick tower remains famous for the whirling floral stucco added in the Ilkhanid Mongol era; this ornamentation is described by an enraptured Robert Byron in Road to Oxiana. In the crypt (steps down from the rear interior) is the plain-blue-tiled Alaviyan family tomb, covered with votive Islamic embroidery. costumes.
- St Stephanos Gregorian Church
A church dedicated to Armenian saints Stephen and Gregory has existed on this site since the 1600s, though this latest incarnation dates from the early 20th century.
- Armenian Evangelical Church
Squatter and slightly older than St Stephanos Gregorian church next door, the Armenian Evangelical Church was built in 1886 and now serves as a museum of Armenian migration.
- Masjed-e Jameh
A vaulted passage of the bazaar leads into the courtyard of the large Qajar-era Masjed-e Jameh. The disused south iwan (entrance) leads into a hall over which there’s an im-pressively large brick dome. The north iwan is lavished with patterned blue tile work that continues on four of the mosque’s six mina-rets. Some areas are restricted to men only.
- Borj-e Qorban
In a back alley surrounded by apartment blocks sits this 13th-century classic 12-sided, pyramid-roofed tomb tower that was once used to defend the city.
- Imamzadeh-ye Hossein
Worth a look is the Qajar-era Imamzadeh-ye Hossein, tucked behind Ho-tel Yass in a little courtyard with an ancient mulberry tree.
Activities
- Mt. Alvand
In good weather, Mt. Alvand (3580m) makes an excellent day walk. From Ganjnameh, 8km from Ham-adan, head above the river (or take the telecabine!) to Mishin Plateau (1¼ hours), where there are two shelters. From there it’s another hour to Takhteh Nader Plateau, an alpine meadow with a spring, probably snow covered. The summit is a further hour through a boulder field.
- Paragliding
Get some altitude with the local wing crew at Shahrestaneh, 4km on from the Tarik Dare ski resort along the Tuyserkan road, on the other side of Ganjnameh Pass – the views are incredible!
Points Of Interest
This village, at 1700m elevation and just north of the no-torious Evin Prison, is one of Tehran’s most pleasant urban escapes
At 370,000 sq km the Caspian (Darya-ye Khazar) is five times the size of Lake Superior.That makes it by far the world’s largest lake.
This popular in town escape stretches ever more steeply up the mountainside at Tehran’s northern edge
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