Overview
Sophisticated Rasht, capital of Gilan province, has long been a weekend escape for Tehranis looking to sample the famous local cuisine and hoping for some pluvial action – it’s the largest, and wettest, town in the Shomal region. Travellers use it as a base to explore the amazing Qal’eh Rudhkan and photogenic Masuleh, but if they linger they’ll discover a vibrancy among its young population that’s quite infectious.
The rapidly expanding town has em-barked on a bold urban-planning experiment, the first in Iran, called ‘My Rasht’: the streets surrounding Shohoda Sq have been blocked off, creating an amazing people-filled space that has reinvigorated the city centre. Small electric vehicles transfer the less agile between the road ends. Eventually the pedestrian malls will stretch 7km.
Rasht has had extended periods of inde-pendence, and the lispy local Gilaki dialect remains noticeably distinct from Farsi – its reversed adjective-noun order causes other Iranians much amusement.
History
Rasht (previously Resht) developed in the 14th century, but the population was massacred in 1668 by the forces of Cossack brigand Stepan ‘Stenka’ Razin, who also sank Persia’s entire Caspian navy. The Russians, a constant in the region thereafter, were back in 1723 clearing space in the then impenetrable forest to allow Resht’s growth. In 1899 a Russian company cut the road to Qazvin, diminishing Gilan’s isolation from the rest of Iran. By WWI the town boasted 60,000 inhabitants and four international consulates.
From 1917 Rasht was the centre of Ku-chuk Khan’s Jangali (‘Forest’) Movement, an Islamic, Robin Hood–style rebellion. Among its grievances with collapsing Qa-jar Iran was the shah’s perceived sell-out to oil-hungry Britain. Courting the Bolsheviks who’d just taken control of Russia, Kuchuk Khan joined forces with communist agitators and, on 4 June 1920, set up Gilan as the ‘Soviet Socialist Republic of Iran’. However, radical leftists and land-owning Muslim nationalists made very prickly bed-fellows. Once Kuchuk Khan had ejected the infidel communists from his ‘government’, his Russian backers slipped away, leaving Gilan prey to the efficient new regime of Reza Khan (later Shah Reza Pahlavi), who’d taken over Persia in a February 1921 coup. Reza Khan dealt first with temporarily independent Tabriz/Azerbaijan, and then he attacked Gilan. Most of Rasht’s pretty wooden houses were burnt and Kuchuk Khan was executed – his severed head was brought to Tehran for public display.
These days any enemy of the Pahlavis has become a friend of the current Islamic republic. Thus Kuchuk Khan has ridden back into favour on many a horseback stat-ue across Gilan.
Sights
- Gilan Rural Heritage Museum
Many traditional Gilani cottages have been reassembled in the grounds of this fascinating open-air museum that strives to represent the different cultural and architectural areas of Gilan. On 45 hectares within the Saravan Forest Park, 18km south of Rasht (2km off the Qazvin highway), seven full villages have so far been reconstructed. Events showcasing past traditions are held during the year. You can tuck into some traditions yourself at the museum’s cafe.
- Shahrdari
Rasht’s most identifiable landmark sits at the western end of the vast, central Shohoda Sq. The Shahrdari’s colonial style is tempered by a token mini dome topping a severe block-like clock tower. The whole area is floodlit at night and the square is a popular people-watching viewpoint.
- Rasht Museum
While small, this museum is well presented in a 1930s house. Its mannequin displays illustrate the Gilaki lifestyle, amid a selection of 3000-year-old terracotta riton drinking horns in the shape of bulls, rams and deer. It was believed that supping from such ves-sels endowed the drinker with the powers and skills of the animal depicted.
Points Of Interest
This village, at 1700m elevation and just north of the no-torious Evin Prison, is one of Tehran’s most pleasant urban escapes
At 370,000 sq km the Caspian (Darya-ye Khazar) is five times the size of Lake Superior.That makes it by far the world’s largest lake.
This popular in town escape stretches ever more steeply up the mountainside at Tehran’s northern edge
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