Darband in Tehran

Three kilometers uphill from Tajrish Sq, the road ends, becoming a path winding up a narrow rocky valley, with water cascading down the slope. The trail heads up into the hills past a picturesque succession of tea houses, restaurants and fruit-conserve stalls: it’s one of the most relaxing places in Tehran to kick back with tea and a qalyan, with a mountain-village feel.
Near the entrance to Darband village is a chair lift, which will cut out some of the slog uphill (although it was closed for renovation at the time of writing). Serious hikers can continue east across the mountain for around 5km to Park-e Jamshidiyeh.
A visit to Darband can easily be combined with Saa’d Abad: exit the palace complex via the top entrance and keep going up the hill.

The Zahir-od-dowleh cemetery, where many Iranian giants of art and culture such as Iraj Mirza, Forough Farrokhzad, Mohammad-Taqi Bahar, Abolhasan Saba, Ruhollah Khaleqi, Rahi Mo’ayyeri and Darvish Khan are buried, is also located in Darband.

Scape  the traffic, pollution and chaos of Tehran by heading up to Darband, north of the city, in the afternoon. Take a hike or just relax over tea and shisha and saffron ice cream in one of the terraced restaurants garlanded with flowers. Watch the sun set and enjoy wonderful local cuisine in laid back surrounds… Darband is a breath of fresh air and well worth the walk up the steep and winding roads…. Try fesenjoon, a stew made with pomegranate molasses… Ambrosial!